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Standing on a platform at the rear of a railroad car, I positioned myself to admire and photograph the scenery, just as countless travelers have done over the past century. Approaching was a section known as the “High Line,” where our double steam engine pulled train entered a gorge situated 300 feet above the thundering waters below. The skies were a brilliant blue, and the morning sun illuminated the canyon with plentiful light.

I would have less than a minute to capture the roaring rapids of the Animas River below and the sunlight glistening off the canyon walls. Immediately after taking these photographs, I would need to pivot to capture the entire train that extended along a narrow rock pathway carved into the sheer side of the canyon.

I had received instructions on how to take the photographs from the attendant in our train car. As the locomotive navigated a seemingly ordinary left-hand curve, our docent shouted, “Turn to your right.” Once the train reached a gap between two large rocks, I took numerous photos, but I was so captivated by the stunning beauty of the Animas Canyon below that I couldn’t stop taking pictures.

Commandingly, our docent called out, “Turn to the left,” and there was the entire train precariously positioned atop the rock-hewn pathway that served as the entrance to the High Line. I turned and captured more images, hoping I had obtained the photographs I desired. My journey on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad was a continuous series of adventures, and this was merely the beginning. I still had a three-hour journey ahead of me.

History and Route of the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

The Durango & Silverton Railroad is a narrow-gauge heritage railway that carries passengers on a picturesque journey between the towns of Durango and Silverton in southern Colorado, covering a distance of 45.2 miles (72.7 km) each way. Much of the beautiful route between these two locations follows the Animas River through a series of canyons and wooded areas.

The most striking part of the journey occurs when the train enters Animas Canyon, high along a rocky ledge, and then gradually descends into the gorge alongside a rock wall carved from the mountainside. This segment, referred to as the High Line, has attracted tourists since the railway’s completion in 1882. Consequently, the railway is recognized as a National Historic Landmark and was also designated by the American Society of Civil Engineers as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1968.

One of the exciting aspects of traveling on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is that both the engine and the railroad cars are smaller compared to the conventional trains we encounter today. Narrow gauge refers to the configuration where the train cars and engine operate on tracks that are 3 feet (914 mm) apart. The primary reason for the construction of narrow-gauge railroads in this region of the United States was their superior performance in navigating sharper curves through mountainous landscapes.

Additionally, narrow-gauge railroads were more cost-effective and quicker to construct due to the lighter weight of the rails compared to standard gauge. They also employed lighter and less costly locomotives and railcars. This aspect was particularly crucial for the mining sector, as it allowed for rapid access to valuable ore discoveries in remote locations.

Planning a Road Trip to Ride the Durango & Silverton

It goes without saying that, as a passionate admirer of historic steam train journeys, the opportunity to experience the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad has been a long-standing aspiration of mine. Unfortunately, reaching Durango posed a challenge for me, given that I resided on the East Coast of the United States. Determined to experience the railroad, I meticulously crafted a five-day road trip itinerary originating from Las Vegas, which would lead me through northern Arizona, New Mexico, and southern Colorado. During my travels, I made stops to visit Meteor Crater, the Petrified Forest National Park, and the Bisti Badlands.

The day before I visited Durango, I had the pleasure of riding the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad, departing from Chama, New Mexico. The Cumbres and Toltec Railway spans 74.2 miles (119 km) and is a steam-powered excursion railway historically connected to the Durango & Silverton, as their rail lines and equipment were once integral components of the Denver & Rio Grande Narrow Gauge Network. The two railroads share a total of ten narrow-gauge steam locomotives, of which nine remain operational, along with ten narrow-gauge diesel locomotives.

Origins of the Durango & Silverton Railroad in the Mining Boom

The route currently operated by the Durango and Silverton was originally the San Juan extension of the Denver and Rio Grande Narrow Gauge Network. This line was initially designed to transport silver and gold ore extracted from the San Juan Mountains. Construction of the rail line under the direction of General William Jackson Palmer took only 11 months, and trains have been utilizing this line since its inauguration in 1882. Even though primarily a freight route, scenic excursions have been available to passengers ever since the route connecting Durango and Silverton was completed. However, since 1971, the Durango and Silverton has mainly functioned as a scenic tourist heritage line.

I arrived in the city of Durango after departing from the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad in Chama. The journey between these two locations took approximately 3 hours by car. I arrived at the Durango Train Depot around dinner time, hoping to take some photographs of the operations; however, the rail line had already closed for the day, as the last train had returned around 6:30 pm. I had scheduled a round-trip ticket for travel between Durango and Silverton for the next morning. The train was scheduled to depart Durango at 9 am and return at 6:30 pm. The railway offers a range of train services throughout the day, but I was especially interested in a full-day steam excursion, as I believed it would be the most fulfilling way to experience the entire journey between the two towns.

Ticket Options and Train Cars on the Durango & Silverton

Passengers are presented with a range of fare choices based on the service level and the type of railcar. Vintage standard class coach cars are the most economical option. Open-air covered gondola cars are highly favored due to their exceptional scenic views, although they are exposed to sunlight, temperature variations, and unpredictable weather conditions. Deluxe accommodations, including coach cars featuring larger and more comfortable seating, are popular, along with deluxe cars equipped with glass roofs. Additionally, there are various types of first-class parlor cars that offer snacks, beverages, souvenirs, and dedicated attendants.

I chose to travel in the most luxurious parlor car accommodation, the Alamosa Parlor Car, as I appreciate the high level of service and the additional space it offers. Parlor cars often emulate the Victorian golden age of train travel, when exclusive railroad cars were designed for dignitaries like railroad magnates and mining tycoons.

The Alamosa Parlor Car, in which I traveled, was the final car on the train and included a private viewing platform at the back. It boasted large windows ideal for photography and comfortable lounge-style seating complete with tables and chairs for 25 people.

I arrived at the Durango Train Station at approximately 7:45 am in preparation for my 9:00 am departure. Due to limited parking availability around the train station, I opted to purchase a parking pass when I reserved my ticket online. As I made my way to the train station, I noticed that the 8:00 am diesel train was concluding its boarding process and getting ready to depart on schedule. Given the crowded environment filled with passengers from both scheduled trains, I chose to explore the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum situated within the railroad yard.

 

Visiting the Durango & Silverton Railroad Museum

The museum was easy to locate, as there were numerous signs directing visitors. A surprisingly small number of individuals appeared willing to walk to the far end of the train to locate the building that contained the exhibit. Even those who ventured back there seemed hesitant to enter, likely due to the unremarkable and understated entrance. I observed many people turning around and returning to the train station to view the departing train. Failing to visit the museum is a big mistake. It has a remarkable exhibit!

The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum, located in Durango, Colorado, spans 12,000 square feet and highlights the rich history of the railroad, transportation, and mining in the region. Visitors are encouraged to spend between 45 minutes to an hour exploring the museum.

 

The museum boasts a diverse array of exhibits, such as antique trucks, tractors, a covered wagon, vintage rail coaches, full steam engines, lanterns, photographs, and paintings. Guests have the opportunity to walk through cabooses, sleeper cars, and rail coaches, and can even step into the engineers’ compartment of an 1880 locomotive. They can observe all the throttles and equipment utilized to operate a train, including the firebox.

Beginning the Scenic Train Journey from Durango

A significant attraction is the expansive 800-square-foot model railroad that illustrates the operations of the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad during the 1950s. I was captivated by the array of historic railroad artifacts displayed in the museum and was surprised by the low number of visitors present. I had only set aside about 25 minutes for my visit, which proved insufficient. The museum is free of charge and open during daytime hours. This museum should be everyone’s initial stop on their journey aboard the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad.

After visiting the museum, my train was ready for boarding. As is customary for me when traveling on a steam train, I take the opportunity during the boarding process to capture photographs of the engines, train cars, boarding passengers, and the bustling activity around the station. I reached the front of the train just as the engines were coupling to the train. Our excursion utilized two steam-powered locomotives for the uphill journey to Silverton. Only one locomotive would be required for the return journey. The use of two locomotives was necessary because the train consisted of more than 10 cars, and additional power was essential to haul the 20-car train up the incline.

Historic Steam Locomotives and the Switch to Oil

The locomotives for the day, numbers 476 and 480, were both manufactured by the Baldwin Works near Philadelphia in 1925 and purchased by the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad. Each of these engines was designed with a 2-8-2-wheel configuration, which signifies that the train was composed of two leading wheels on a single axle, eight driving wheels that were powered and spread across four axles, and two trailing wheels on a different axle. This specific wheel arrangement is widely known as a Mikado, a term named after the famous opera by Gilbert and Sullivan, originally referencing a series of engines constructed for the Nippon Railway in Japan.

One observation that my nose swiftly detected was the absence of the distinct scent of burning coal filling the air. A quick inspection revealed steam billowing from the smoke stack and coal cars positioned behind the engines, yet there was no coal present. Subsequently, I learned that since 2019, the Durango & Silverton has transitioned the boilers in their steam locomotives to utilize fuel oil for steam production. The coal cars were actually tanks for fuel oil. This shift has become increasingly prevalent in the steam train industry in recent years.

There are three primary reasons for this change. The adoption of fuel oil contributes to enhanced performance, streamlined operations, and a decrease in fire hazards. Oil possesses a higher energy density than coal, rendering it a more effective fuel option. Furthermore, oil is simpler to transport, store, and manage in comparison to coal. Moreover, given that railroads are frequently held accountable for fires instigated by their locomotives, transitioning to oil can mitigate this hazard.

Following accusations regarding its responsibility for a fire in the San Juan Forest in June of 2018, the owner of the Durango & Silverton concluded that switching to a liquid fuel was in the best interest of the future of the railway. While most passengers may not perceive a significant difference, train journeys can vary based on the type of fuel utilized. I appreciate the nostalgia associated with coal and the traditions that accompany it, particularly the smell and visible coal ash drifting in the air as the locomotives exert themselves to transport their passengers.

While I was capturing photographs, I also observed an additional detail. As I turned to face the first engine, I noticed a McDonald’s directly to my right. In fact, as I adjusted my camera, it appeared as if the first engine had pulled up to the take-out window of the McDonald’s Drive-Thru. This was undoubtedly a first for me in my experiences with heritage railroads, and it reminded me of how the Durango Train Depot is indeed situated right in the heart of the town.

After I took my photo, I heard the conductor call out a loud, “All Aboard,” which prompted me to head back to my railroad car positioned at the end of the very long chain of coaches. The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad day trip is an extremely popular excursion, and our train consisted of over 20 passenger cars. This was the longest train I had ever experienced on a steam-pulled heritage rail journey.

The Alamosa Parlor Car

As soon as I boarded and everyone applauded for me as the only missing passenger, I took a bow and then headed to my seat to participate in the orientation. The Alamosa Parlor Car, although originally constructed in 1880, was quite comfortable, and I relished the snacks, beverages, and large windows that allowed for capturing photographs. I booked a seat on the right side, as my research suggested that this side was optimal for obtaining excellent pictures in the morning sunlight. The Durango & Silverton still employs a brakeman for safety and to monitor the train, so we were cautioned not to be alarmed if an employee swiftly passed through our train car.

The most delightful surprise in the Alamosa Parlor Car was our attendant, Ellie. She was not only well-informed about every detail of the journey and train line, but she also provided guidance on how to capture the best photographs. Furthermore, Ellie was a trained geologist who offered us a comprehensive history of the geological wonders we encountered during our trip. She also assisted us in selecting the ideal lunch spot in Silverton that suited our preferences. The advantage of having a knowledgeable guide significantly enhanced the quality of the excursion.

Riding the High Line and Animas Canyon

Our journey commenced at a leisurely pace through the town of Durango, where we waved to the visitors on the platform as they prepared for the next train’s departure. Durango is a picturesque mountain town characterized by its Main Avenue, lined with historic structures. The small town was established in the 1880s by the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad as part of their initiative to service the San Juan mining district by way of Silverton, Colorado.

The train embarked on its route through the entire town before crossing the Animus River, continuing alongside it most of the way to Silverton. Numerous civic and historical landmarks were highlighted to us during the trip, and we waved to many townsfolk who paused to bid us a safe journey.

The initial 30 minutes of the journey closely traced the path of the Animus River heading north. After some time, the train commenced its ascent towards Animas Canyon. The primary attraction occurs early in the journey and arrives quite unexpectedly. The train moves through seemingly ordinary countryside before suddenly entering the San Juan National Forest.

Just as swiftly, the train transitions into the High Line of the canyon, revealing breathtaking views of the turbulent Animas River and the canyon walls. The winding path along the High Line concludes in approximately 20 minutes as the train descends towards the river and crosses a bridge to reach the opposite side.

The remainder of the journey along the Animas River is truly remarkable. As the train ascended towards Silverton, I took note of the snow-capped peaks of the Rocky Mountains, which complement the river’s natural beauty and the nearby forest. After traversing the High Line, the train entered Cascade Canyon, moving through additional natural woodlands and former resort areas. In many spots along the route, the train ran parallel to the Animas River.

The rail line is situated so close to the river that historically, it has been inundated by snowmelt and spring rains, temporarily hindering the train’s progress. Portions of the rail line have undergone reconstruction multiple times in the past. Our car attendant, Ellie, emphasized each landmark and shared the rich history of the region. Moreover, she consistently highlighted geological formations and offered a wealth of information regarding the natural environment. I found myself captivated by the learning experience and in awe of the stunning scenery.

Arrival in Silverton, Colorado

After a journey lasting approximately three hours, we finally commenced our ascent into the town of Silverton. Prior to our arrival, our guide, Ellie, provided recommendations regarding dining options. She also inquired about our plans. Based on our responses, she offered personalized advice on how to reach our chosen restaurants swiftly to avoid the crowds. I found the menu at the Pickle Barrel, situated in the oldest stone building in Silverton, quite appealing.

Many passengers opted for the renowned Grand Imperial Hotel. There were no incorrect choices, and menus for all the prominent lunch establishments are accessible online. I ordered a Reuben sandwich, and my meal was delicious. I finished in a reasonable timeframe, leaving me with nearly 90 minutes to explore Silverton before the train’s departure.

Originally known as “Bakers Park,” named after one of the earliest gold prospectors to arrive in the area, the town of Silverton is situated at an elevation of 9,318 feet (2,840 m) above sea level within a flat region of the Animas River valley, encircled by steep mountains. The initial mining claims were established in the mountains above Silverton in 1860, towards the conclusion of the Colorado Gold Rush, while the land was still under the control of the Ute Indian tribes. The town experienced various cycles of prosperity and decline, influenced by different mining activities and the fluctuating values of silver and gold.

The last operational mine in Silverton ceased operations in 1992, and the community now primarily relies on tourism for its economy. The current year-round population is fewer than 700 individuals, and for many years, the town primarily served as a summer tourist destination; however, the recent emergence of nearby ski resorts has led to a rise in winter tourism. Presently, the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad transports numerous trainloads of visitors to Silverton daily from May to October and also manages a railyard museum within the town.

Silverton is a charming town adorned with historic buildings set against stunning mountain scenery. What captivated me most about Silverton was its resemblance to the classic image of an old western mining town. It featured a Main Street lined with hotels, bars, restaurants, and shops.

The train depot was conveniently located near the center. While Main Street was broad and paved, many of the side streets were not. Dominating the center was the notably elegant Grand Imperial Hotel. I spent a considerable amount of time exploring the shops and capturing photographs.

Returning to Durango on the Narrow Gauge Railroad

Before the train’s departure, I dedicated around 30 minutes to walking to the front of the train to photograph the locomotive and the cars arranged for our journey back to Durango. This location offered some of the finest opportunities for personal photographs alongside the locomotive. Exercise caution, as the train can be hot to the touch, a lesson I learned the hard way. Additionally, I ventured to the rear of the train to take more photographs, where a helpful railroad employee kindly took pictures of me while I stood on the back platform.

The train departed on time from Silverton. This departure offered an excellent chance to observe the rail yards at Silverton and admire the distant mountains. The return journey to Durango was considerably more subdued compared to our morning ride. The train retraced the same rail line, and the prominent landmarks remained unchanged. The platform located at the rear of the train provided numerous picturesque views of the mountains alongside the Animas River. Additionally, I found the late afternoon light to be ideal for taking photographs through Cascade Canyon.

I was eager to commence the traverse of the High Line from the opposite direction; however, by 5 pm, much of the canyon had fallen into shadow. The journey through the High Line was just as swift on the return trip as it was during our initial journey. Around 6:30 pm, our train gradually rolled into town. While most individuals proceeded to their vehicles, a considerable number of passengers ventured up Main Avenue in search of an evening meal.

Travel Tips for Riding the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

I gained many insights from my experience on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Due to limited parking availability, it is advisable to purchase your parking pass at the time of booking your tickets. The railroad museum is definitely worth an early visit before your train journey begins. Given the railway’s popularity, if you have a preference for a specific car, it is wise to make your reservation early, particularly during the busy summer and fall seasons.

I booked a round-trip excursion, but if your time is limited, you will find equal satisfaction in taking the train one way to Silverton and then returning to Durango via the faster bus service. The train traverses the same route in both directions. This is particularly beneficial if you wish to take some time to explore the delightful Main Avenue of Durango upon your return.

The train operates at a leisurely pace, averaging approximately 17 miles per hour, so prepare for a long, enjoyable ride punctuated by breathtaking scenic views. The journey into Animas Canyon along the High Line is truly magnificent, yet the scenery remains equally stunning all the way to Silverton. Silverton offers excellent options for lunch. It is advisable to conduct some research and select your lunch destination in advance; this way, you can head straight to the restaurant to avoid the crowds.

For those interested in railroad-related souvenirs, it is best to acquire them prior to boarding the train in Durango. I was not able to find them in Silverton, and after the lengthy journey, your interest in them may wane.

Seasonal Excursions and Special Event Trains

The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad maintains a comprehensive website (www.durangotrain.com) where you can purchase tickets and explore all that the railroad has to offer. Beyond the picturesque journey to Silverton, the railroad provides various itineraries throughout the year. Passengers can embark on a 5-hour trip to experience the High Line and Cascade Canyon before returning. A shorter 3.5-hour option is available in the evenings during the summer, which takes riders to the High Line and back.

From November to December, the schedule is dominated by 2-hour evening Polar Express rides, which include holiday-themed activities. The winter months from November to May feature a 5.25-hour daytime Cascade Canyon Winter train.

Additionally, there are themed rides such as the Cowboy Poetry Train, 2-day Photo Event trains with designated stops for photography, Brew Trains, Wine Tasting Trains, Valentine’s Day events, a Shamrock Express, and rides showcasing specific locomotives. For a detailed schedule, please refer to their website.

Why the Durango & Silverton is One of the World’s Best Train Rides

There are three primary reasons to make the trek to southern Colorado to experience the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Firstly, it offers an all-day adventure aboard a steam locomotive, traveling from one city to another, with a duration of 3 1/2 hours each way. Such an experience is rare in the realm of heritage rail travel.

Secondly, the locomotive and railroad cars are genuine narrow gauge rolling stock, much of which originates from the 1880s. They have undergone complete restoration, allowing passengers to relive the experience of traversing a mountain railroad as it was done over 140 years ago. Lastly, the train’s route along the High Line through the Animus Canyon is recognized as one of the most scenic train journeys in the world. It is an experience that will be forever etched in your memory.

Final Thoughts on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

Describing my experience on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad as anything less than extraordinary would be an understatement. From the start at the museum until my return to the Durango Depot, the train company provided an unforgettable adventure. I felt I had the rare opportunity to revisit the era of the Colorado mining boom and enjoy an authentic steam-powered rail journey along a historic path that follows the Animas River to the old mining town of Silverton, just as travelers would have experienced in 1882.

My journey was filled with legends, history, stories, geology, and stunning natural scenery. The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is an experience truly worth traveling for!