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I’ve been to Edinburgh four times, and honestly? I’d go back in a heartbeat. It’s hands down my favorite city in Scotland. There’s just something about it that gets under my skin—in the best possible way!

What I love most is the contrast between the Old Town and the New Town. You’ve got these dark, moody cobblestone streets on one side, full of hidden closes and ancient buildings. And then just a short walk away, the New Town opens up with grand Georgian architecture and wide, elegant boulevards. It’s like two completely different worlds side by side, and that mix is pure magic.

Even though I definitely enjoy a good pub night or a scotch tasting (who doesn’t?), I also think Edinburgh is incredibly family-friendly. I’ve spent the morning chasing ghosts in the Old Town and the afternoon geeking out over dinosaurs at the museum with my kids. It’s the kind of place that is just as much fun for a couple as with kids in tow.

Oh, and I should probably mention—I’m a total Potterhead. So the fact that J.K. Rowling wrote Harry Potter here only adds to the magic for me!

Edinburgh’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it absolutely deserves that title. There’s just so much packed into this part of the city!

In this guide, I’ll walk you through all the best spots, share some tips from my own trips, and hopefully help you fall in love with it too.

What is the difference between Old and New Town Edinburgh?

The short version? Old Town is the original medieval city, and New Town was built to give people a bit more breathing room. But the full story is way more interesting.

Back in the 1700s, Edinburgh’s Old Town was bursting at the seams. People were living on top of each other (literally—some buildings were up to 14 stories high), and things were getting pretty grim. We’re talking poor sanitation, overcrowding, and not much daylight. The city needed a fix, fast.

Enter the New Town. Around 1767, city planners came up with a whole new neighborhood just north of the Old Town—complete with wide streets, grand squares, and gorgeous Georgian architecture. It was designed to show off Scotland’s place in the modern world and give the growing middle class a more “civilized” place to live.

It created this wild contrast: Old Town with its gritty, pied piper ancient character, and New Town with its clean lines and Enlightenment-era polish. They’re two totally different vibes—but together, they tell the full story of Edinburgh’s growth, grit, and glory.

What’s in Edinburgh Old Town?

Old Town Edinburgh is the kind of place where you don’t really need a plan—you can just wander, and every turn leads to something interesting. The crooked little alleyways, ancient buildings leaning into each other, and bagpipes echoing through the air really make it feel like a movie set… except it’s real.

All the action happens around the Royal Mile, a historic street that stretches from Edinburgh Castle at the top to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom.

This mile (which is actually a little longer than a mile—classic Scotland) is packed with things to see, like museums, churches, quirky shops, and street performers.

Here are some of the highlights you won’t want to miss:

Edinburgh Castle

You really can’t miss it. Literally. Sitting high on Castle Rock, the castle towers over the city like something out of a medieval movie. It’s one of Scotland’s most famous landmarks, and for good reason.

Inside, you’ll find the Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny (yep, that’s a real thing), and sweeping views across the whole city. And if you happen to visit around 1 pm, you’ll hear a loud boom. No worries, it’s just the One O’Clock Gun, fired daily like clockwork.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

At the other end of the Royal Mile, you’ll find this beautiful palace that’s still used by the King when he’s in town. You can tour the royal apartments, wander through the ruins of an abbey out back, and stroll the gardens like a monarch on a coffee break.

If you’re into history, you’ll love this place, and if you’re not, you’ll still enjoy rubbing elbows with the English Monarchy for a few hours.

Free Harry Potter Walking Tour

Potterheads, this one’s for you. There’s a free Harry Potter tour that takes you to spots around Old Town that inspired the books—like the grave of Tom Riddle (yes, really), the original Diagon Alley, and the café where Rowling wrote early chapters.

It’s called the Potter Trail, and even if you’re only a casual fan, it’s a fun way to explore the city. Just bring comfy shoes… and maybe a wand.

Churches with Stories

The Old Town is packed with beautiful old churches, and each one has a story. St Giles’ Cathedral is a must-see with its stunning stained glass and iconic crown-shaped steeple. Canongate Kirk has ties to the royal family.

Greyfriars Kirk is both historic and a bit spooky, especially if you’re into ghost stories. (And yes, this is also where you’ll find Greyfriars Bobby’s grave—bring tissues.)

Museums You’ll Actually Want to Visit

If museums aren’t usually your thing, Edinburgh might change your mind. The Museum of Edinburgh is tucked into a charming old building and is full of quirky treasures from the city’s past.

The Writers’ Museum is perfect for lit lovers, especially if you’re into Robert Burns or Sir Walter Scott. And the National Museum of Scotland? Huge, free, and jam-packed with everything from dinosaurs to Dolly the sheep. You could easily spend half a day there. My kids loved it, and it was a great option for us on a rainy day.

Don’t Miss These

• The Scottish Parliament Building – the super modern and very interesting, odd architecture makes it worth a visit. This place is open to visitors and has some cool exhibits inside if you have time.
• Mercat Cross – right in front of St Giles’. This is where the town crier used to announce royal news and hand out public punishments. Gotta love a little dark history.

Nightlife Vibes

When the sun goes down, Old Town definitely doesn’t sleep. On one infamous child-free trip, my husband and I went out on the town in this area and had an absolute blast! We found cozy pubs for drinks with live folk music and noisy bars filled with students and travelers.

We didn’t go out for dinner, just had a bite and a drink at every stop, and visited as many places as we could. So much fun! Just start in the Grassmarket and make your way through town, ducking into doors with music coming from them. Our night ended with a wee dram of whisky near Cowgate. Just pace yourself—Scots pour strong!

Best Edinburgh Old Town Restaurants

One of my favorite things about visiting Edinburgh is how good the food is, especially in Old Town. After eating my way around the town more than a few times, these three places are still my favorite:

🥔 Makars Gourmet Mash Bar

If I could recommend only one casual spot in Old Town, it would be Makars. I still think about the slow-cooked lamb and mustard mash I had there—it was comfort food perfection. The vibe is laid-back and welcoming, and the prices are super reasonable for the quality (most dishes are under £25). It’s truly the kind of place that makes you want to return and try every single item on the menu.

🍷 The Witchery by the Castle

If you’re looking to treat yourself, The Witchery is one of the most atmospheric restaurants I’ve ever eaten in. Tucked right next to the castle, it feels like dining inside a candlelit castle—velvet chairs, wood-panelled walls, and all. The food is rich and luxurious (think steak, lobster, and decadent desserts), and yes, it’s pricey—but totally worth it for a romantic evening or a special occasion.

🍣 Kanpai Sushi

Okay, this one might surprise you—Japanese food in the heart of Edinburgh? But Kanpai is hands down the best sushi I’ve had in the UK, and that’s saying something. The fish is incredibly fresh, the atmosphere is calm and stylish, and every dish feels like it’s been made up by a master Japanese chef. It’s on the pricier side, but for sushi this good, I’d go out of my way every time. I’ve eaten here on all 4 of my visits to Edinburgh.

How long should I spend in Edinburgh Old Town?

For me, the honest answer is: as much as you can. But if you’re spending a week in Scotland and are working on a schedule, two full days is enough to soak in the best bits without rushing around like a headless Highland cow.

In one day, you can see all the highlights—walk the Royal Mile, tour Edinburgh Castle, visit a museum or two, and maybe squeeze in a ghost tour or whisky tasting in the evening. It’ll be a packed day, but totally doable.

Two days give you more breathing room. You can dive into the side streets, pop into more museums, grab a slow lunch at a cozy pub, and really explore at your own pace. It also means you’re not trying to choose between visiting Holyrood Palace or doing the Harry Potter tour—you can do both.

But even if you’ve just got a few hours, make sure you don’t miss it. Old Town has this way of pulling you in fast. One minute you’re taking a photo of the castle, and the next you’re wandering through a centuries-old alley with a street musician playing bagpipes nearby. In my opinion, it really sets the mood for any Scotland trip and is a great place to look for great souvenirs too!

Is Edinburgh walkable?

Yes—100% yes. Edinburgh is one of the most walkable cities I’ve ever been to, which is one of the reasons it’s so much fun to visit. Especially in Old Town, walking is really the best way to see it all. The streets are packed with details you’d miss if you were zooming by in a taxi or stuck on a bus. Plus, most of the major sights are within a short distance of each other.

Prepare yourself for a bit of a leg workout, though. The city is built on hills (and volcanoes, fun fact), so there’s quite a bit of climbing involved— staircases, steep cobbled lanes, and uneven cobblestones. It’s not impossible by any means, just something to keep in mind if you’ve got little ones or you’re carrying a lot of luggage.

Comfortable shoes are a must. Leave the cute-but-useless sandals at home: Trust me, your feet will thank you!

How to Get Around the Old Town in Edinburgh

Getting around Edinburgh is pretty straightforward, especially in Old Town, where most things are within walking distance. Walking is honestly the best way to explore it all. You’ll get to see more, like tucked-away cafés, hidden closes, and random street performers that really make the Old Town more of an experience.

But if your feet need a break (after climbing up to the castle and down again, they probably will), you’ve got a few options.

Buses are very reliable and run all over the city, including straight down to the New Town and out to spots like Leith or Arthur’s Seat. You can buy tickets with contactless payment right on board.

The tram is sleek, modern, and handy if you’re coming from the airport or heading out that way. It doesn’t go everywhere, but for airport transfers or hopping across town, it’s ideal.

Taxis and Ubers are available too, but traffic in the Old Town can get a little jammed, especially during festivals. Walking usually gets you there faster anyway.

Edinburgh Hotels in Old Town

If you’re planning to stay in Edinburgh’s Old Town, you’re in for a treat. This historic area is packed with character, and there really is something for every taste and budget.

For a Touch of Luxury

• The Witchery by the Castle: Located right next to Edinburgh Castle, this opulent hotel offers suites with rich decor, velvet drapes, and antique furnishings. It’s perfect for a romantic getaway.
• The Balmoral Hotel: While technically at the edge of Old Town, The Balmoral is an Edinburgh icon. With its clock tower and luxurious rooms, it’s a favorite for those seeking classic elegance.

Boutique Charm

• Hotel du Vin Edinburgh: Situated in a former asylum, this boutique hotel seamlessly blends historic architecture with modern comforts. It’s got cozy rooms and an excellent bistro. Definitely a great option.
• Market Street Hotel: This modern hotel features Scandinavian design influences and is just steps away from the Royal Mile. What I love here is the rooftop lounge, which offers stunning views of the city. Even if you don’t stay here, come and have a drink!

Budget-Friendly Options

• Ibis Edinburgh Centre Royal Mile: A reliable and affordable choice, this hotel is centrally located and offers clean, comfortable rooms.
• CoDE Pod – The CoURT: For a unique experience, consider this pod-style hostel set in a former courthouse. It’s modern, clean, and perfect for solo travelers or those on a budget.

Self-Catering and Apartments

• Cheval Old Town Chambers: These are luxury serviced apartments which offer the flexibility of an Airbnb, but with the comfort of a hotel. And since they’re located just off the Royal Mile, they’re ideal for families or if you plan on staying longer in Edinburgh.

Conclusion

Here’s the thing about Old Town: it’s not just a place to see, it’s a place to feel Scotland. The way the light hits the stone buildings at sunset, the sound of buskers echoing through narrow closes, that first glimpse of the castle as you turn a corner—it all creates a kind of magic you won’t find in another part of the country.

If you’re lucky, Old Town won’t just be a stop on your trip. It’ll be the place you keep coming back to in your mind—and maybe, like me, in real life too.